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How to Choose Diamond Jewelry

Using the Four Cs to Select Gemstones

Nov 12, 2009 Molly Markey

Diamonds can be characterized by carat, clarity, color, and cut. Use these four features to evaluate diamond quality when purchasing valuable jewelry.

"A diamond is forever" reads the slogan of De Beers, the world's most prominent diamond jewelry company (Diamond: The History of a Cold-Blooded Love Affair, Matthew Hart, 2001, Penguin Books). Diamonds are meant to symbolize eternity, love, and fidelity, a fitting set of attributes for a mineral comprised of just one element.

Because of their symbolism, diamonds are the gemstone of choice for engagement rings, wedding anniversary presents, graduation gifts, and other important occasions. The high cost of diamonds, however, prompts consumers to carefully evaluate many different stones before deciding which to purchase. What criteria should be considered when choosing a diamond? What are "conflict" diamonds, and how can consumers know that the product they buy is not a conflict diamond?

How to Select a Diamond

In the 1940s and '50s, the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) created four criteria to evaluate diamond quality. These are the "4 Cs".

  • Carat: The size of a diamond is measured in carats and fractions of carats. For diamonds and other gems, "carat" is a measure of weight (1 carat = 0.2 grams, which is about the same mass as a paper clip). The vast majority of diamonds sold weigh less than one carat, and the weight of a diamond is often expressed down to the hundredth of a carat (such as 0.32 carats) due to the high cost of diamonds. However, the weight of the diamond in carats is only one criterion used to evaluate these gems. Two diamonds that each weigh 0.5 carat may be sold for very different prices based on differences in their color, cut, and clarity.

  • Color: Absolutely colorless diamonds are the most desirable and hence the most expensive. (Intensely pink or blue diamonds, however, are exceptions to this rule; their rarity makes them very costly as well.) Most diamonds have a slight yellow or brown cast.

  • Clarity: The clearer the diamond, the more expensive it is. Many diamonds contain small imperfections (tiny cracks or inclusions) that may affect their transparency. The fewer (and smaller) the imperfections, the more transparent and valuable the diamond.
  • Cut: The way the diamond is cut greatly affects how it reflects light, and hence, its perceived beauty. Two diamonds of equal carat, color, and clarity may be valued very differently depending on how they are cut. The "standard round brilliant" cut is the most commonly used cut for diamond jewelry, although heart, cushion, and emerald cuts are also popular.

What are Conflict Diamonds?

Conflict diamonds are gems mined illegally by rebel groups and sold to buy weapons. As such, conflict diamonds help fuel wars and add to instability in regions with fragile governments, particularly in Western and Central Africa.

Avoid Purchasing Conflict Diamonds

As of 2009, more than 99% of the world's diamonds are conflict-free, according to the World Diamond Council (www.diamondfacts.org, viewed on November 13, 2009). However, the sale of even a few conflict diamonds causes great human suffering and helps undermine governments in struggling regions. Therefore, it is important for consumers to ensure that the diamonds they purchase are certified by the Kimberly Process, the U.N.-mandated system for tracking diamond shipments from suppliers to buyers which ensures the diamonds are obtained from a legitimate source.

Use the Four Cs to Select Diamond Jewelry

Cut, color, clarity, and carat are the four major criteria used to assess diamond quality. Although the majority of the world's diamonds are now conflict-free, consumers should determine whether their jeweler's diamonds are covered by the Kimberly Process Certification System, ensuring that these gems do not originate from war-torn countries.

The copyright of the article How to Choose Diamond Jewelry in Jewelry is owned by Molly Markey. Permission to republish How to Choose Diamond Jewelry in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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